Seeing the wood and the trees

A few days before Christmas, an email pinged into my inbox:

“Not sure if you’ll manage this John, REALLY last minute stuff with a tight deadline, 26th January in fact, but could you photograph a piece of remote West highland woodland for us, the images are for use in a fund-raising campaign to obtain the woods in collaboration with a local community group…”

Before I could even sort out dates and opportunities another email arrived:

“Deadline changed, sorry, even tighter! 11th January is the latest give or take a day or so. Really sorry!”

I found a gap, only a few days, but enough. But the weather….in January…in the west…with the country flooding and winter lurking somewhere in the background? The weather was the problem.

 

View to East Block woodland edge of Glen Mallie on right, viewed from north side of Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

View to East Block woodland edge of Glen Mallie on right, viewed from north side of Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

View to East Block woodland on left of frame, Glen Mallie in centre, and edge of West Block on right, viewed from north side of Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

View to East Block woodland on left of frame, Glen Mallie in centre, and edge of West Block on right, viewed from north side of Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

View west up Loch Arkaig with West Block woodland on left side. © John MacPherson

View west up Loch Arkaig with West Block woodland on left side. © John MacPherson

 

I fixed the dates, arranged to collect a key from the local Estate to gain access to their stalking track with my Land Rover so I could get right into the site and save me precious time on the short winter days by not having to walk in and out from the main road. Then went off to visit family for Christmas, and watched the weather forecast, very carefully.

 

East block woodland, Inveramlllie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

East block woodland, Inveramallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

I was very very lucky. It turned out to be fairly cold, and of course it was a wee bit wet, but it cleared sufficiently from time to time for me to be able to get a variety of shots, and on one reasonably dry day with a few good breaks in the cloud I was able to go high on the mountainside and get expansive views across the east block of woodland.

 

View north-east across Loch Arkaig from upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland). © John MacPherson

View north-east across Loch Arkaig from upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland). © John MacPherson

 

 

View north-east across Loch Arkaig from upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland). © John MacPherson

View north-east across Loch Arkaig from upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland). © John MacPherson

 

View west across Glen Mallie from upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland) © John MacPherson

View west across Glen Mallie from upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland) © John MacPherson

 

But the woodland… what a place. Wild, rarely visited and visually stunning. It’s in two blocks, one to the east, the other to the west, on the south side of a remote loch, each block at least 10km long and 1.5km wide, extending up to 350m above sea level, covering in total 2,500 acres, supporting red deer, eagles, buzzards, wildcats, pine martens, and more. Its a really special place – dramatic in its location and suffused with history. There are few places like this left in Scotland and its all the more precious for that.

 

Red deer stags in upper Glen Mallie © John MacPherson

Red deer stags in upper Glen Mallie © John MacPherson

 

 

Grass and dead pine branch on upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland) Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

Grass and dead pine branch on upper slope of Beinn Bhan (in East Block woodland) Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

It’s located not far from where I was born, and I’ve been in part of the wood many times over the years, so I know it quite well, but the last time was about 20 years ago. (I wrote recently about a brief visit to Arkaig here.) It was a privilege to revisit the site, but a challenge to have to take a ‘commercial’ view of the place. It’s an interesting switch of mindset to consider “what would be useful for a fundraising campaign?” rather than “what intrigues me?”. Of course there are areas of overlap, but I had limited time and rare gaps in the weather so client needs came first.

 

Spotlit pines in twilight, Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

Spotlit pines in twilight, Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

Fire-damaged pine in twilight, East Block woodland, Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

Fire-damaged pine in twilight, East Block woodland, Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

The night I arrived I tried some ‘light painting’ with a small LED torch, a thing the size of a Cuban cigar tube but with sufficient light output to illuminate trees 100m away. I underestimated its output! My first attempt overexposed by a significant amount. But when I got a sense of the output/distance/exposure it became a real joy. The couple of celebratory ‘arrival’ drams I’d had helped immensely. It was on the verge of snowing and the wind had a vicious edge to it but it was a good start – I always like to get some work under my belt when I arrive in a place.

My task was to capture some sense of the atmosphere of the woodlands, the character of the trees, particularly the older ‘granny pines’ and also evidence of use of the area by the Commandos who had trained here during WW2 and had set ablaze large swathes of the forest. The bleached skeletons of the dead pines remain, stark in the landscape, glowing eerily in the gloaming as the light faded.

 

View east towards East Block woodland from upper Glen Mallie, with fire-damaged pines in foreground. © John MacPherson

View east towards East Block woodland from upper Glen Mallie, with fire-damaged pines in foreground. © John MacPherson

 

Community management of woodland like this can have huge benefits for the surrounding population. Vibrant ‘working’ woodlands are not really just about trees – they’re really about people. Creation of paths can create building and ongoing maintenance jobs, and the recreational opportunities will bring in visitors, who stay locally and support b&b’s and other small business operators. Development of woodland classrooms and other interpretation facilities can enable local schools and other groups to become involved too. The actual management of the woodland and process of regeneration will involve the labour of many people, all making an investment in the social and environmental health of this valuable community asset. I’ve had the good luck to visit many areas of wild Caledonian pine woodland around the Highlands over the years, and there are very few that have the character and scale, and crucially the potential, of Arkaig.

 

View into East Block woodland from Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

View into East Block woodland from Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

The fundraising campaign has just been launched this week, all manner of printed material and a lovely short film to raise awareness (film is at the bottom of the page). The time frame to raise the required funds is tight and immediate response is needed. So if you love wild woodland and want to help save this very special piece of the Highlands, which is of international conservation importance, please give Woodland Trust and their partners the Arkaig Community Forest your support.

Here’s a few of my favourite images from the job. It’s a place worth a visit, and well worth saving!

 

Looking west into Glen Mallie over lower section of East Block woodland, from Invermallie © John MacPherson

Looking west into Glen Mallie over lower section of East Block woodland, from Invermallie © John MacPherson

 

Cut pine trunk in East Block woodland with Glen Mallie behind, Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

Cut pine trunk in East Block woodland with Glen Mallie behind, Invermallie, Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

East Block woodland from Invermallie, with Beinn Bhan behind, Loch Arkaig

East Block woodland from Invermallie, with Beinn Bhan behind, Loch Arkaig

 

Red deer stags beside Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

Red deer stags beside Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

Deer skull on upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland) Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

Deer skull on upper slope of Beinn Bhan (across East Block woodland) Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

© John MacPherson

Looking east over the Arkaig woodlands © John MacPherson

 

Moon and Caledonian pine © John MacPherson

Moon and Caledonian pine © John MacPherson

 

View into Glen Mallie from north side of Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

View into Glen Mallie from north side of Loch Arkaig © John MacPherson

 

 

 

Author — John Macpherson

John MacPherson was born and lives in the Scottish Highlands. He trained as a welder in the Glasgow shipyards, before completing an apprenticeship as a carpenter, and then qualified as a Social Worker in Disability Services. Along the way he has cooked on canal barges, trained as an Alpine Ski Leader & worked as an Instructor for Skiers with disabilities, been a canoe instructor, and tutor of night classes in carpentry, stained glass design and manufacture, and archery. He has travelled extensively on various continents, undertaking solo trips by bicycle, or motorcycle. He has had narrow escapes from an ambush by terrorists, been hit by lightning, caught in an erupting volcano, trapped in a mobile home by a tornado, kidnapped by a dog's hairdresser, rammed by a basking shark and was once bitten by a wild otter. He has combined all this with professional photography, which he has practised for over 35 years. He teaches photography and acts as a photography guide & tutor in the UK and abroad. His biggest challenge is keeping his 30 year old Land Rover 110 on the road. He loves telling and hearing stories.

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